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J M

jitterz24

Joined: Tuesday, January 15, 2002
Last Update: Sunday, February 19, 2006

Email: unlisted

1995 Chevrolet Z24

About This Vehicle:

I have tested only some of these #'s. I do not garantee that they work or that they are exactly what it is described as. I only archived this as it was posted by the members and will not take any responsibility to wrong parts being ordered. Please double check with your dealership prior to ordering.

Body Style: Coupe
Color: Part #'s
Engine: 2.4L DOHC
Transmission: Manual

MODIFICATIONS

Engine:

2.4L
Cyl head 24577385
Injectors 17122264
Exhaust Manifold 24576614
AC Eliminator Pulley 24574519
Exhaust manifold gasket w/o egr 22178213
Exhaust manifold gasket w/ egr 24576382
Throttle cable 22618841
Lower radiator hose 22659987
Coolant Resivoir 22605500
Auto trans Cable 22621773
Engine Mounts
Lower Auto 22174912
Lower Manual 22145447
Upper mount 22174933
Fuel pump sender assembly 22674713
Ac accumulator 2724908
AC compressor 1135437
Exhaust sensor on manifold 25162600
Exhaust sensor after cat 12569553
Water pump 12482714
Supercharger 12498287
Supercharger injectors kit 17113399
Supercharger spark plug kit 05613717
Intake Manifold 24575462
99 EGR block off plate 24575505
99 EGR block off plate Gasket 24573947
2.2L
Throttle cable 22659189
Left E-brake Cable 22651234
Main E-brake cable 22603399
2.3
Intake Cam 24574239
Coolant resivoir 22605500
exhaust cam 24570698
Intake manifold gasket 22531631
TB/Manifold gasket 22542375
2.2 Ecotec
Intake Camshaft Blank 88958612
Exhaust Camshaft Blank 88958613
Head Gasket and O-ring Kit 89858614
Neutral Balance Shaft set 88958615
Billet Connecting rod set 88958618*
*4 use with race piston & billet crankshaft
*Billet crankshaft 88958620
*Race Piston 88958635
Hi. PERF. CNC Ported Head 88958619
Fab. Aluminum Intake Manifold 88958629
Race Engine block 88958630
Billet Crankshaft pulley 88958631
Exhaust header flange set 88958632
Hi. PERF. Piston
ring
pin set 88958634
Turbo wastegate adapter 88958638
Full race piston set 88958639
Goodwrench Replacement Engine 12574621*
*(Must have 2003 Fuel injectors)
Manual Transmission 90537868
Auto Transmission 90537869
Copper head gasket -- 88958614 High perf. CNC ported head 88958619
Fabricated almn intake manifold 88958629*
*(accepts a 75mm LS1 throttle body)
High perf. piston
ring & pin set 8958634
Isuzu Tranny
Isuzu diff to case bearings 94027665
Getrag Tranny
2k Getrag throw out bearing 22602575

Suspension/Wheels/Brakes:

GM Strut Bar cruise control N/A 22604347*
GM Strut Bar cruise Control Equipped 22642387*
*Note some modification is required for 2002 models
95-99 Strut mounts Rear 22178213
95-99 Strut mounts Front 22173158
95-99 Hub assembly Front w/bearing 7470014
95-99 Hub assembly Rear w/bearng & wheel sensor 7470597
Bump Stop Rear 22129486
Bump Stop Front 22177920
95+ CF bowtie wheel caps 9594585
2000+ Front Strut Mounts Nut 22196749
2000+ Front Strut Mounts Mount 22200754
2000+ Front Strut Mounts Seat & bearing 22182103
2000+ Z24 wheel 9593204
2000+ wheel nuts & cap 12497054
2002+ LS aluminum wheel 9594582
2002+ LS chrome wheel 9595065
00+ Z24 Trunk 12368192
00+ spoiler not painted 12335354
00+ spoiler silver 12496014
00+ spoiler White (paint code 16U) 12496009
00+ spoiler Dahlia blue (22U) 12496010
00+ spoiler black (41U) 12496011
00+ spoiler bright red (81U) 12496012
00+ spoiler cayenne red (96U) 12496013
00+ spoiler green met (35U) 12496015
00+ spoiler gold (60U) 12496016
00+ spoiler fern green (36U) 12496017
00+ spoiler led light 22611505

Interior:

00+ dash panel (around radio & HVAC) 22698064
00+ GM bra (w/hood piece) 12496934
00 air bag (driver) 16824968
00 air bag (pasanger) 22663648
Rear view morror w/o light 10221757
Corvette Leather shift knob 12559930
00+ dash panel (around radio & HVAC) 22698064
95-99 Seatbelt bracket cover 22584124
95-99 left coupe power door panel 22601349
95-99 right coupe power door panel 22601348
95+ vent visors (2 door) 12371388
95+ vent visors (4 door) 12371389
95+ GM side skirts (2 door)12495297
95+ floor mats front (2 graphite) 12370606
95+ rear floor mats (2 graphite) 12344776
95+ floor mats front (2 neutral) 12370609
95+ floor mats rear (2 neutral) 12344782
00+ GM bra (w/hood piece) 12496934
95+ hood bra 12496935
95+ hood bug visor 10253606
00 air bag (driver) 16824968
00 air bag (pasanger) 22663648
HVAC knobs 9352583
Sunfire power windows switch 22652690

Exterior:

95-99 Z24 Effects Front Bumper 22597556
95-99 Z24 Effects Rear Bumper 22597558
95-99 Z24 Effects Right skirt 12463297
95-99 Z24 Effects Left skirt 12463298
95-99 Headlights Left Bracket 16518385
95-99 Headlights Right Bracket 16518386
95-02 Trunk lid 22678456
95-99 Z24 license plate filler 22639556
03 Trunk lid 22682933
95-99 Spoiler Light harness 12148769
95+ toyota "24Z" emblem 22649427
95+ 2.4 emblem 22649425
00+ sunfire SE rear bumper 12335352
00+ Rksport Sunfire SE rear valence 06015002
00+ Rksport Sunfire Left side skirt 06015003
00+ Rksport Sunfire Right side skirt 06015004
03 Rear bumper 12335580
95-99 Z24 spoiler 12370110
95-99 fog light assembly left 16517429
95-99 fog light assembly right 16517430
00+ rear fender liner left 22689310*
00+ rear fender liner right 22689309*
*Screws for liner 10122060
8 screws needed for Chevy
6 screws needed for Pontiac
2001+ effects extension 12335536
2001+ effects extension h12335571
2001+ effects extension h12335572
00-02 Corner lense bracket Left 22626691
00-02 Corner lense bracket Right 22626692
00+ rear bumper brackets 22670644 & 22670645
00-02 Drivers headlight 22666740
00-02 Pass headlight 22666741
00+ Z24 Trunk 12368192
00+ spoiler not painted 12335354
00+ spoiler silver 12496014
00+ spoiler White (paint code 16U) 12496009
00+ spoiler Dahlia blue (22U) 12496010
00+ spoiler black (41U) 12496011
00+ spoiler bright red (81U) 12496012
00+ spoiler cayenne red (96U) 12496013
00+ spoiler green met (35U) 12496015
00+ spoiler gold (60U) 12496016
00+ spoiler fern green (36U) 12496017
00+ spoiler led light 22611505

Miscellaneous:

2.3HO
HO Crank pully 24573264
HO head 22539086 HO Intake manifold 24572301
Toyota Parts
99 toyota tails Right Outer 22626394
99 toyota tails Right Inner 59977632
99 toyota tails Left inner 55977631
99 toyota tails Left Outer 22626395
2000+ toyota tails Right outer 22628442
2000+ toyota tails Right Inner 22602878
2000+ toyota tails Left Outer 22628443
2000+ toyota tails Left Inner 22602879
Toyota Fenders Left 22610683
Toyota Fenders Right 22610682
Toyota Fenders Marker 16516916
Toyota Power mirrors switch 22637275
Toyota Power mirrors Wiring harness 22626407
Toyota Power Mirrors Coupe Right 22635716
Toyota Power Mirrors Coupe Left 22635717
Toyota Power Mirrors Sedan Right 22635714
Toyota Power Mirrors Sedan Left 22635715
Toyota Manual mirrors sedan Right 22635712
Toyota Manual mirrors sedan Left 22635713
Toyota Trunk Liner 22657896
Toyota Trunk liner retainers 21030249
Toyota Rear Seat Graphite 22646585
Toyota rear seat armrest assembly 22646591
Toyota rear seat filler plate 12530009
Toyota airbag 22622577
Toyota Dash panel assembly (ie. large peice)
96-99 graphite - 22645992
00 graphite - 22602891
96 light gray - 22645993
96-99 neutral - 22645994
00 neutral - 22602892
97-99 medium gray - 22613666
00 medium gray - 22602893
Toyota Dash pad (top piece)
96-00 graphite
light & medum gray- 22637752
96-00 neutral - 22637754
toyota Instrument cluster bezel
96-99: 22637798
00: 22620045
Toyota Radio filler plate 96-99 22637797
Toyota Metal support (bar under dash)
96-99: 22596097
00: 22625942

Future:

----------CAM UPGRADE----------
The intake cam is from a 1995 (only) 2.3L Quad 4 engine.. the eighth digit in the VIN is a letter D. Can be found in 1995 Cavalier Z24's
Sunfire GT's
and Olds Achievas. Brand new
it's --->GM part #24574239($197.64). If you're looking under hoods
the casting number on the cam is 245/742 (which IS the same number as the 2.4L LD9
but has 0.360" of lift)
and the casting number on the cam housing/carrier is 24574057. The exhaust cam is from a 1990-94 (only) 2.3L Quad 4 engine.. VIN D as well. Can be found in 90-94 Grand Am's
Olds Cutlass
Calais
Acheiva
and Buick Skylark. Brand new
it's --->GM part #24570698 or #22545390 (a little confusion there)($197.64). The cam casting numbers are 255/455 (which IS the same number as the HO cams
but only has 0.3750" of lift
not 0.410") and the housing/carrier itself is 22542963. If you are going to do this swap
here is the complete list of gaskets required. I bought them not as kits because I didn't want to be left over with gaskets I didn't need. When I compared costs briefly with Nate
it would appear that I didn't spend more than him and may have even saved some money because the kit he got had the head gasket
and I didn't get a head gasket. YOU DON"T NEED A HEAD GASKET FOR THE CAM SWAP! I also bought a new timing chain cover gasket
but you don't need to. Unless yours is leaking
you can re-use it. If your car is pre 1997
you may want to change it while you are in there anyway. Here are the GM part numbers: 12355988($8.46) - Intake or exhaust cam carrier gaskets (upper and lower) 12363173($10.30) - Intake or exhaust cam carrier gaskets (upper and lower) 24575512($30.00) - Tensioner. Not required
but if you have timing chain noise..change this. Also
be sure you are familiar with how this part works because it has to be pre-loaded once installed to snug up the timing chain. 24575513(3.00) - Tensioner shoe. This will probably break when you remove
so change it anyway. 24575255($12.23) - Guide. Not required unless yours are worn. 24575257($12.23) - Guide. Same as above. 24575256($12.23) _ Guide. Same as above. 992704($NA) - Assembly Lube. Good idea to coat the cam lobes and the carriers where the cam contacts with this stuff. 992869($NA) - Oil supplement. The GM manual calls for this stuff when you do the cams. 12360464($28.29) - I think this # is the timing chain cover gasket. (optional) 245752453($NA) - I think this is the # for the water pump gasket kit. This is only required if you are doing your water pump. I did my water pump and thermostat at the same time as the cams.
--------Power Cores Install-------------
From the powercores.. red + black .. red + black.. the red ones are joined together then tap into the brown wire.. each black one taps into one white.. so basically .. three taps.. that tap under the idi cover. basically tap into right b4 the coil packs plug into the ignition control module. here are the instructions from cookie.. they are what i used 1.) Remove the IDI cover on the 2.3L/2.4L or the coil packs on the 2.2L. 2.) On the 2.4L remove the coil packs from the IDI cover
and disconnect the coil connector from the ignition module. (please note the ignition module is the flat aluminum box connected to the IDI cover with three bolts.) 2a.) On the 2.2L you must remove the coils from the base plate to access the positive and negative wire leads. 3.) Once you have removed the white coil housing from the IDI cover you will notice two white wire and one brown wire
these are the coil leads. COIL WIRES 2.3L2.4L ONLY WHITE 1 (negative channel 1) WHITE 2 (negative channel 2) BROWN 1 (12 Volt Lead) You will need to drill a 1/2 inch hole through the white plastic enclosure to allow the wiring to pass through. 4.) Mount the power cores with the supplied tape to either the top of the battery or to the back of the firewall. 5.) The leads of the power cores need to be sent through the hole drilled in the white coil enclosure. 6.) The red wires from the power cores need to be joined
and then piggy-backed onto the brown coil lead (DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!!) 7.) The black wires need to be individually connected (piggy-back style) to the white leads in the coil enclosure (DO NOT CUT ANY WIRES!!) 7a.) 2.2L owners must individually connect each power core to each coil. ONce the coil pack has been removed then the power coil must be directly wired into the base of each coil. This can be accomplished by fanning out the wire and soldering it the post that connects to the coil. Take time to identify which terminal is positive and which is negative. 8.) Reattach the white enclosure to the IDI cover
and plug in the coil leads to the ignition module. 8a.) On the 2.2L install the coils back on to their bases
and reattach the spark plug wires.
--------HO Intake Manifold----------------
___Parts to buy before hand___ 2.3 intake gasket kit....... small tube of RTV (silicone sealer) ___Removal of stock parts___ Disconect the negative cable on the battery. Unplug all sensors and vacuum lines on the intake and t/b. Remove the throttle cables and bracket from the t/b. Remove the 4 t/b bolts and t/b and 7 intake manifold bolts and manifold. Remove the black tube that goes to your brake booster. You will be cutting this tube later. On the front of your trans
you will find a grounding stud
with wires and a nut on it. You will need to remove this
and relocate it down to the bolt below (I found this to be in the way on the 5 speeds
not sure on the auto) ***If you have a 96-99 (mid 99 they stopped useing the egr) you will have to remove your EGR and the mounting bracket. You will then need to install a exhaust gasket from a 99+ w/o EGR
in place of your exhaust manifold gasket
or make a block off plate for the front of your engine. Plug the wires back into the EGR
and zip tie it to the power steering lines just to the right of the engine.*** ___2.3 Intake___ First things first
find yourself a good intake. The Log style is a good choice
and make sure its off a DOHC engine. There are a few part #'s for the H.O. ones
I have a few of the #'s: 22538691
24570288
24571319. PICs>>>> (copy and paste) http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cw5QI.A_ckpJyhW Modifying the intake. I used an extra 2.4 head to mark off the ports
but since most of you wont have this
you will need to use your 2.4 intake gasket. Its not easy
but you can mask of the parts you need to remove. Once you have the intake matched to the head
you now need to modify 4 bolt holes. The outer 2 and the center 1 line right up
its the 2 'Pairs' of bolt holes on either side of center that need to be modified. The bottom 2 need to be sloted out
the inner 2 need to be drilled lower
you will notice/see how far
once you try to line up the intake to the head. At this time
you should make sure you have a 2.3 intake gasket kit
and modify it to match your newly modified manifold. THOUROLY CLEAN THE INTAKE
REMOVE ALL METAL SHAVINGS!!! PICs>>>> (copy and paste) http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cgBQI.AGmq2CQiP http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cgBQI.Acv2SEkVm http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cgBQI.AmIp0MI4Y Installing the intake..... Try to test fit the intake on the head
w/o a gasket for the moment. Make sure it fits
and nothing is in the way. If all is ok
remove the intake
install the gasket with a SMALL amount of silicone sealer
and reinstall the intake. ___Throttle Body___ Now for a t/b. You can use either a 2.3 56mm t/b
or a 2.4 t/b
either the stock 52mm
the Mantapart 56mm
the RSM 59mm or 62mm. If you go with the 2.3 t/b
get a 93+ one
either with or with out the cruise option. Remove all the sensors
and be carefull with the bolts
since they are weak
and might break. You can use your 2.4 Idle Air Control sensor
just pull off the plunger on the 2.3 one
and swap it with the 2.4 one. For your Throttle Position Sensor
you need to use your 2.4 one
check your position of it on the 2.4
and place it on your 2.3 t/b. You will need to cut one of the mounting ears off
and drill a new hole in the t/b for the other one. Tap the hole
and mount the sensor. PICs>>>> (copy and paste) http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cgBQI.A31ZWk_gn http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cgBQI.AQJhqRaLH If you go with the 2.4 t/b
you dont need to mess with any sensors
use your stock ones. You will need to drill out the 2 holes that match up with the holes in the intake. Just select a drill bit that is slightly larger then the bolts. To mount the throttle cable bracket
I would first get one off a '95 2.3(part # 22590179)
just because it was made to fit in the J-body with this intake manifold. The upper bolt hole in the t/b will need to be taped
to bolt the upper part of the bracket in place. PICs>>>> (copy and paste) ***Pics comming soon*** Either way you will need a 2.3 intake gasket kit from any parts store
in the kit you should get a t/b gasket. Use a SMALL amount of silicone sealer
and mount the t/b gasket and t/b to the intake. ___Rewiring and plumbing Vacuum lines___ You will have to remove some electricle tap
and open the loom slightly. You SHOULD NOT NEED TO CUT ANY WIRES!!! Run your Cam Position sensor plug behind your intake
between the runners
and plug it in. Pull the rest of the wires to the t/b. Plug in your IAC and TPS. I mounted the MAP sensor onto the intake by the power steering pump. I ran the vacuum for it to the port on the back side of the intake. The vacuum line for the FPR goes to the first port on the left of the intake. There is a vacuum line that comes up from underneath (just behind the A/C compressor) rout that one to the center vacuum port. The large hole in the front can be pluged with a common pipe plug found at a hardware store. There should be one small vacuum line and the large tube from the brake booster left. The small one is for you HVAC controls
mount that to your t/b. The black tube from the booster needs to be cut
you will need a peice long enough to reach the rubber hose that plugs right into the booster itself. Should be about 6-8" long. Remove the rubber elbo from the rest of the tube
and install it onto the large opening on the t/b. This leaves you 2 ports on the t/b that need to be plugged
you can pick up vacuum caps from a auto place
or just run a small peice of tube from one to the other. Now is the time to connect your throttle cables. Connect them the same way you took them off your t/b. If you have cruise
GM makes a part to turn your cruise box over (part# ***Comming soon
its from the GM supercharger kit***) ___EGR___ We removed the egr and mounting bracket from the head
kept the egr plugged into the wire harness
and ran a vacuum line from the intake manifold (any port but FROM THE MAP SENSOR) to the large open port on the egr. We used a brass nipple fitting and a filtered air line fitting (3/8 pipe thread)
and tapped the large egr port with a 3/8 NPT tap. No check engine light. Then just zip tie the egr out of harms way. PICs>>>> (copy and paste) ***Pics comming soon*** ___Intake and filter___ You can use your stock 'S' tube with a cone filter to the stock location
or you can cut the tube
and run the filter straight down...... or make up your own combo..... PICs>>>> (copy and paste) http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cgBQI.AwJawvxbK http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cw5QI.AKEbbrYrm http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cw5QI.AMLjQkFGH http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_2...cw5QI.AsiKW1B0M That is it
you should now be able to reconnect the negative cable
and start your baby up. At start up
it will Idle about 2000-3500 rpm
till the IAC valve resets.... if it goes any higher
or doesnt come down after 30 secs. you have a vacuum leak. To check for a leak
listen for a whistle
or just shut it off
and check your gaskets. If everything is ok
let it idle for 5-10 mins to let everthing reset. If you get a SES light
take it into any AutoZone and get it checked. Make sure you get the code # and what it is. If you need any help email me at wizzer03@hotmail.com
----Polishing IDI cover-----
The sand paper grit I used was 80. The buffing compound is Mibro Buffing and Polishing ( I bought the 3 steps but the last step made everything hazey just get the first 2 ) . I also bought a buffing wheel for the drill from Canadian Tire Also for the very last stage to get the high gloss look I used Turtle wax Rubbing Compound. This is just to remove scuffs and prints. You must use stage 1 & 2 first. 1. Materials: Drill
Buffing wheel/wheels
Buffing compunds
80 Grit sand paper
and a hand held sander for wood. 2. Remove the cover from the car put it on ur work bench and start sanding DO NOT push the sanding wheel hard or else you will make little dips in your cover. 3. Once down to metel you will see all the marks the sanding has made ( DO NOT WORRY ) Now for all the parts that the sand wheel did no get
it should get all most off of the powder coat off. Pull at ur wood sander or ur black whatever your feel and get those parts. This is really only needed for the back ridge where it starts to raise. 4. This is the fun part!!! Put the buffing wheel on your drill then with stage one ( the compunds come in a big stick ) while the buffing wheel is spinning hold the compound next to it to get the wheel covered on the edge. Then rub the compound oall over ur area
do one area at a time. and start polishing continue doing this untill the scratchs are gone ( this will take a bit of time ) 5. Once the hole cover is scratch free or ur desired areas are
move on to stage 2 using the same method as above u will start seeing the mirror come along nicely ( it will be shiney from stage one but this give u the gloss) 6. Once that is done clean off ur cover and u are ready to paint. Now u can mask everything
or u can paint the hole cover one colour
like I did. At first u will kick urself but let it dry
the reason for not masking is that i never go tht ecrisp lines at the top of the ridges. LET DRY FOR 30 MIN!! 7. Once paint is mostly dry get a cloth and use paint remover to take the paint off the polished parts. Be carefull this is time consuming and if cone wrong it will leak into the grooves and remove the paint. Slowly from side to side remover the paint back down to the metal. 8. Take your Turtle wax compund and buff for the last time by hand the polished parts. 9.Sit back have a look and smile ( thats what I did for my lst step lol ) Do not rush this job
give urself time and lots of it to make it just right!!!